Thanks Orleans Cycle and its two mechanics Doug and Devin! You saved my butt!
Took my bike in for some minor surgery (new chain, new rear derailleur) and it ended up in intensive care! In addition to the above, I also had to replace the cassette, front chain ring and all the bearings in the bottom bracket. (Ed note: to be honestly I had been expecting the worst; but had been hoping for the best).
Not only did Doug do a great job replacing the parts and tuning the bike; but by Devin doing some great footwork, he found a solution to my rear derailleur problem.
If your on Cape Cod in Orleans you have to check them out. Plus the shop has free parking right on the Cape Cod Rail Trail (got some good Trek rentals as well if you don't want to slump your bike over the bridge for the weekend).
The Solution....
In a previous posting, I noted that my bike is an all-carbon Specialized S-Works with Shimano 7800 Dura Ace components. The bomb has got 13,000 miles on it. The Dura Ace components worked like a charm - but I wanted to upgrade my cassette to a 32T cassette and Shimano rear derailleurs do not support beyond 28T. I need the extra teeth to make life easier in the mountain climbs that I will encounter in my Ride Across America.
Again not to bore you (see my previous post on the subject) Sram could solve the problem but I would have had to replace every component on the bike (shifters, brakes, derailleurs, etc). Big Bucks Expensive!
The Bike Forums recommended I use a Shimano mountain bike derailleur and I went into the Orleans' shop loaded with all my facts and figures on how to do the conversion. Even printed out the conversations I had with some of the Bike Forum members (another Ed note: you have got to understand I know absolutely nothing about bike components and here I am telling the mechanics how to do their job).
Thank god Doug and Devin talked me out of this course of action (actually I think they sort of shook their heads in agreement when I was explaining what to do to make me feel good - but I think they knew they were going to figure out the right solution on their own - regardless of my "expert technical guidance".
And lo and behold.... They did some research and found out that Shimano had announced and was shipping a 105 level, 5701 rear derailleur. And best this RD supports up to a 32T cassette. Exactly what I wanted! The RD 5701 is so new you can't even find it on the Shimano web site.
So I got the bike back this morning and immediately took it out for a 60 milers. Sun was shinning and the bike was glistening (bike was spotless - like when I bring my Lexus in for an oil change and it comes back waxed). The 105 performs as Doug and Devin said it would. Smooth like silk. Can't even tell that it's not Dura Ace.
And Doug put some black Specialized S-wrap tape on the bars and my bike looks like it belongs in New Zealand as part of the All Black Rugby team. Not a piece of chrome on the bike (other than the nuts that hold my tire tube stems in place - might paint them). It's like a stealth bike - black everything. Plus the S-wrap tape has some kind of vibration damping quality to it and damn if it does not work!
The gear ratios on my 12-32 cassette (Sram) is exactly what I wanted. I can't believe it took me 13,000 miles to find a gearing that works for me. You could count on your hand the number of times I used my large front chainring (50T) in the last four years. Today, on the 60 miler I never left the big front! Love it!!!
So now I have no excuses. Got 30-40 days more to rack up the miles and then head out to Oregon to try to check one more adventure off my bucket list. Stay tuned.
P.S. Doug and Devin - hope you enjoy the Cape Cod Beer Growlers!
Saturday, April 27, 2013
Wednesday, April 24, 2013
Cycling by kt22mike at Garmin Connect - Details
Just got myself a Garmin Connect account. Lets me post manual data from my Polar heart monitor and my Cateye computer.
You have got to be kidding me
How the hell do you train with weather like this.....
10 amWedApr 24
45°F
Cloudy / Wind
- FEELS LIKE:
- 36°
- HUMIDITY:
- 93%
- PRECIP:
- 0%
- WIND:
- N at 25 mph
Training stuff
Over the last week I have been reaching out to my friends for advice on how to train. Plus reading as much stuff as I can about endurance training, weight lost and re-hydration.
First thing I have done is get religious about using my heart rate monitor. Never been a big fan of these things (usually forget the strap at home or it's always too damn cold to put on). I am sure that when my wife reads this about the monitor she will zing me with a bunch of "I told you so".
Several articles on endurance riding have stressed the need to "get rid of the macho bike technique" and slow down and to LSD or "long steady distance" ride.
http://www.bikeradar.com/fitness/article/heart-rate-monitor-training-for-cyclists-28838/
So I am giving this strategy a go.
This means 3-4 hour rides with my heart rate in Zone 2 (65-75%) of my max heart rate. I will stick to this plan and occasionally add a 2 hour Zone 3 ride. I got to tell you I feel like a snail riding like this. When I stay in Zone 2 my average speed is 12-13 MPH. (ed. note... I live at the end of Cape Cod and the winds from the ocean have been averaging 15-25 mph. So even if I wanted to go faster I couldn't).
Next, I am relaying on my good friend Bob Sullivan (best spin instructor in Boston) about weight loss and diet.
http://rsully.com/index.html
He gives all his personal training students the book "The Weight Loss Trad" by Dr. Thomas Halton. Basically it says stay away from the bad things and focus on eating the good stuff. A strategy that seems obvious - but given that I tend to do the opposite - must be obvious only to smart people.
The hardest part of my plan is to figure out re-hydration. In the past after long training rides or marathons (before my rebuilt leg/knee), my re-hydration plan concentrated on drinking as many beers as I could immediately after the race. Sadly, this seemed to work for me as every other liquid I tried did not work as well as the beer.
For getting the low down on re-hydration I reached out to Bob's friend, Olivier Boss who is chief scientist at Energesis Pahrmaceutical. I figured he knew a bit more than me (not to mention his Phd).
Plus his new company is focused on finding drugs to fight obesity http://www.energesispharma.com/index.php?id=3)
so I figured I would get a "twofer" listening to Olivier's advice.
In a nutshell he basically told me that waiting to the end of the ride is too late; I should be replenishing with a good sport's drink along the ride; eat a shit load of bananas and to drink a carbohydrate-protein drink no later than 1-2 hours after my ride. I am going to give this a try for the next 50 days. Then figure out how to have my wife overnight ship as much of this stuff as she can to me during my ride.
For those that crave the technical details of what Olivier suggested here is an extract from his email to me.
1. During the stages (on the bike or during short stops) you need plenty of fluids.
Water is not optimal (it does not have enough sodium and glucose, needed for its absorption). It's OK but not optimal, and surely not enough when it's hot and when the exercise is longer than 1h.
You can drink some water but you should also have an isotonic drink: Gatorade (any flavor you like) eithe G series (normal) or G2 (very little sugar) or Isostar (available in most of the world but not in the US).
Note that Powerade is of very low quality (cheap), and uses high fructose syrup instead of sucrose or glucose (the best for exercise drinks - to consume during and just after exercise). I would avoid Powerade or similar crap.
Drinks with fructose (e.g. vitamin water) are OK (even if not optimal) but not in large quantity. Fructose causes gastrointestinal distress in large quantities (and some individuals are very sensitive).
Food: take small, easy to digest things like energy bars (e.g. PowerBars, PR Bars, MET-RX bars) and/or low fat, high carbohydrate snacks like rice with honey or fruit like bananas.
Overall, quicky-absorbed (simple) sugars can be, and should be, eaten/drunk during and just after (1-2-hour window) exercise/the stage. (Avoid high-fructose corn syrup, it's cheap crap and may contribute to the development of metabolic disease.)
2. Recovery after exercise/between stages:
To optimize recovery after exercise that has largely depleted your glycogen stores (in the liver and muscles), i.e. at least 1.5h at high intensity or 2h at medium intensity, you should consume simple carbohydrate - a drink (e.g. Gatorate, fruit juice) and food (e.g. energy bar(s), bread, honey, etc. or a carbohydrate-protein shake ("recovery drink") within 1h of the end of exercise.
You have a 2h window after exercise (that depletes your glycogen stores) to get your glycogen stores refilled at high rate. This first, fast rate of glycogen replenishment is independent of insulin, requires that you drink/eat carbohydrates, and it's your best chance to recover your strenght/energy/performance within 24h in-between stages. After that window, the normal glycogen replenishment rate is much slower, necessitates insulin (produced by your body when you eat/drink carbohydrates) and necessitates more than 24h to get full.
Recovery drinks: some protein is good, especially if you want to use these as an important source of energy (a good idea for a multistage trip like yours). Best (nutritional quality) protein sources are whey and eggs - you can find good quality, essentially fat-free protein in powder form.
I like to make my own protein shakes (more flexibility and overall much cheaper), and my favorite as base high-quality protein is MET-Rx Protein Plus Vanilla (they have chocolate, too) - it's a powder, 2lbs boxes (I buy mine from AllStarHealth.com http://www.
Later on (dinner) it's good to eat lots of carbohydrates, with fibers like whole-grain cereal (e.g. rolled oats, Shredded Wheat, Weetabix) and whole grain bread. You'll be better off staying away from too much fat sauces like bechamel/melted cheese sauce. Rice, pasta (a little grated cheese or pesto on it is good) and vegetables are good, too. Low fat meat (e.g. chicken, NOT fried, or fish) are OK if you need.
I tried to find Isotar in the US - but you can't get it. So in a follow up email from Olivier he gave me some alternatives...
There will also be some minerals like: Salt, Sodium Citrate, Monopotassium Phosphate
and flavors (e.g. Natural Lemon and Lime Flavors With Other Natural Flavors)
A good range of sugar (total sugars) in the ready to drink mix (powder dissolved in water) during/after exercise is 5% (when very hot weather) to 8% (max. 10%).
Consider Gatorade powder to be 100% sugar (in weight) - same for Cytomax (see below).
For a half liter/16 fl oz of drink (ca. 500g) use 25g to 40g (1 oz to 2 oz) of powder. Usually, the recommended dosage on Gatorade powder boxes corresponds to the upper range (ca. 8%) of sugar content. It's good, and you can dilute a bit more if the weather is really hot.
First thing I have done is get religious about using my heart rate monitor. Never been a big fan of these things (usually forget the strap at home or it's always too damn cold to put on). I am sure that when my wife reads this about the monitor she will zing me with a bunch of "I told you so".
Several articles on endurance riding have stressed the need to "get rid of the macho bike technique" and slow down and to LSD or "long steady distance" ride.
http://www.bikeradar.com/fitness/article/heart-rate-monitor-training-for-cyclists-28838/
So I am giving this strategy a go.
This means 3-4 hour rides with my heart rate in Zone 2 (65-75%) of my max heart rate. I will stick to this plan and occasionally add a 2 hour Zone 3 ride. I got to tell you I feel like a snail riding like this. When I stay in Zone 2 my average speed is 12-13 MPH. (ed. note... I live at the end of Cape Cod and the winds from the ocean have been averaging 15-25 mph. So even if I wanted to go faster I couldn't).
Next, I am relaying on my good friend Bob Sullivan (best spin instructor in Boston) about weight loss and diet.
http://rsully.com/index.html
He gives all his personal training students the book "The Weight Loss Trad" by Dr. Thomas Halton. Basically it says stay away from the bad things and focus on eating the good stuff. A strategy that seems obvious - but given that I tend to do the opposite - must be obvious only to smart people.
The hardest part of my plan is to figure out re-hydration. In the past after long training rides or marathons (before my rebuilt leg/knee), my re-hydration plan concentrated on drinking as many beers as I could immediately after the race. Sadly, this seemed to work for me as every other liquid I tried did not work as well as the beer.
For getting the low down on re-hydration I reached out to Bob's friend, Olivier Boss who is chief scientist at Energesis Pahrmaceutical. I figured he knew a bit more than me (not to mention his Phd).
Plus his new company is focused on finding drugs to fight obesity http://www.energesispharma.com/index.php?id=3)
so I figured I would get a "twofer" listening to Olivier's advice.
In a nutshell he basically told me that waiting to the end of the ride is too late; I should be replenishing with a good sport's drink along the ride; eat a shit load of bananas and to drink a carbohydrate-protein drink no later than 1-2 hours after my ride. I am going to give this a try for the next 50 days. Then figure out how to have my wife overnight ship as much of this stuff as she can to me during my ride.
For those that crave the technical details of what Olivier suggested here is an extract from his email to me.
The key in such an endeavor is to 1. optimize performance (with well-timed supply of "good" energy) during exercise/the stages, and 2. optimize recovery after each stage so you can perform (and have fun) the following day. You cannot overestimate the importance of recovery. Even small things can make a huge (metabolic) difference.
First, it's important that you take with you things that you like otherwise you won't eat/drink them.Water is not optimal (it does not have enough sodium and glucose, needed for its absorption). It's OK but not optimal, and surely not enough when it's hot and when the exercise is longer than 1h.
You can drink some water but you should also have an isotonic drink: Gatorade (any flavor you like) eithe G series (normal) or G2 (very little sugar) or Isostar (available in most of the world but not in the US).
Note that Powerade is of very low quality (cheap), and uses high fructose syrup instead of sucrose or glucose (the best for exercise drinks - to consume during and just after exercise). I would avoid Powerade or similar crap.
You can put 1-2 scoops of the powder with water (it's very soluble, does not clump and gives a shake that can be thick or liquid depending on how much powder you put). If you add honey or unrefined (dark brown) cane sugar (e.g. Rapadura, Panela, ) you have a great recovery drink - to drink right after the stage (and during the stage during short breaks too if you feel like).
You can add variety in your protein shakes (add different amount of protein powder) with various fruit like bananas, blueberries, etc. - to blend with a blender.
You can add variety in your protein shakes (add different amount of protein powder) with various fruit like bananas, blueberries, etc. - to blend with a blender.
I tried to find Isotar in the US - but you can't get it. So in a follow up email from Olivier he gave me some alternatives...
The original Gatorade (now called G series), in powder form, is good - same as Isostar. It's also called "Gatorade powdered drink mix".
(Illustration of the product here: http://www.amazon.com/
The ingredient list should contain: Sucrose (="regular" sugar), Dextrose (=glucose or "grape sugar" - this is the gold standard, the sugar that the body assimilates).(Illustration of the product here: http://www.amazon.com/
There will also be some minerals like: Salt, Sodium Citrate, Monopotassium Phosphate
and flavors (e.g. Natural Lemon and Lime Flavors With Other Natural Flavors)
For a half liter/16 fl oz of drink (ca. 500g) use 25g to 40g (1 oz to 2 oz) of powder. Usually, the recommended dosage on Gatorade powder boxes corresponds to the upper range (ca. 8%) of sugar content. It's good, and you can dilute a bit more if the weather is really hot.
If you want variety another good one is Cytomax (Cytomax Sports Performance Drink).
http://www.cytosport.com/
http://www.cytosport.com/
Don't believe all the B.S. about Polylactate, it doesn't make any difference. But they have interesting flavors (I loved their "Peachy keen" but can't find it anymore). and the sugars they use are good (maltodextrin, glucose=dextrose, fructose).
Maltodextrin is a polymer of glucose, absorbed a little less fast than glucose but it's good, too, during/after exercise (and in small quantity before exercise if you want - but minimize quick sugars before exercise, or eat some fiber with it, e.g. during breakfast).
The little bit of fructose is OK (not needed but OK).
Hope this helps fellow riders. In any case this is my plan and I hope to stick with it!!!!!
Friday, April 19, 2013
Banjo Bag
Well my Banjo Bag that goes under my seat has shown up. I sure hope it is big enough! Here is my plan. On good days where I don't plan on carrying any rain gear I will use my regular-sized rear seat pack. Its got a quick release so it's easy to put on and take off. The plan is to carry my tools, tube, all in one tool, patch kit, etc in my regular bag.
On cold or potentially raining days, I will switch out my regular bag and install the Banjo Bag. This will allow me to carry my tools (see above) as well as my rain gear and/or vest or windbreaker. Hopefully I won't need to do this switch too often. The Banjo Bag attaches via Velcro so I won't have to take off my regular bag's quick release from under the seat. I am a little worried about the Banjo Bag swaying when climbing - but hopefully the Velcro straps will prevent this. Worst case is I will get one or two small bungee cords to lock the bag down.
Once my new rain gear arrives I will stuff the bag and post the bag loaded on my bike.
In the interim here is a review of the bag I found on the web..
Seems like the right decision.
On cold or potentially raining days, I will switch out my regular bag and install the Banjo Bag. This will allow me to carry my tools (see above) as well as my rain gear and/or vest or windbreaker. Hopefully I won't need to do this switch too often. The Banjo Bag attaches via Velcro so I won't have to take off my regular bag's quick release from under the seat. I am a little worried about the Banjo Bag swaying when climbing - but hopefully the Velcro straps will prevent this. Worst case is I will get one or two small bungee cords to lock the bag down.
Once my new rain gear arrives I will stuff the bag and post the bag loaded on my bike.
In the interim here is a review of the bag I found on the web..
Well as noted above, my bag finally arrived and I have just installed it on my bike - fully loaded. Here are some pictures. Fully loaded it contains....
rain jacket
rain pants
little lock (not sure I am bringing this)
All-in-one tool
tube
emergency butt-creme (ya never know when you are going to need some)
little stuff (chain link, patch kit, duck tape, etc)
There was still room and if I needed to - I think I could also include my shoe rain covers and rain gloves. And worst case, I could attach one of these items on the top of the bag as it has a loop that you can attached using a tie down on.
Seems like the right decision.
Wednesday, April 17, 2013
Getting my bike Ready
Getting my bike ready has been a challenge (lots of big mountains to climb).
My bike is a Specialized S-Works with Dura Ace components. The challenge is that it has a compact front end (34-50) and a 12-27 cassette. And unfortunately the biggest gear that my Dura Ace 7800 rear derailleur will support is a 28T gear. This gear ratio just won't cut it in the mountains.
I have over 13000 miles on it and the last tune up was 3000 miles ago (new chain, etc). So changing out some of the older components made sense.
My bike is a Specialized S-Works with Dura Ace components. The challenge is that it has a compact front end (34-50) and a 12-27 cassette. And unfortunately the biggest gear that my Dura Ace 7800 rear derailleur will support is a 28T gear. This gear ratio just won't cut it in the mountains.
I have over 13000 miles on it and the last tune up was 3000 miles ago (new chain, etc). So changing out some of the older components made sense.
Also as the bike is completely carbon it won't support any rear racks. Not only are there no eyelets - but putting any kind of weight on carbon is not recommended.
So here is my recount of how I solved these two issues.
First the cassette and rear derailleur issue.
Now when I called the bike shop that sold me the S-Works - their solution was to buy a new bike (sorry Landry's - I am not going to do this). Ya got to understand this is not a cheap bike. Landry's just lost a customer.
I have researched the hell out of this and in the last month I have been working with my current bike mechanic to change out some of my components. Shimano has fallen behind the curve on supporting large gear teeth. So I looked at replacing the RD with a Sram RD - but I would have to replace most if all of my components to do this as they are not compatible with my Shimano 7800 shifters. While all of of Sram's RD support 32T rear cassettes - this switch to Sram would have cost me $1000 plus. So forget Sram.
Lots of riders in the bike Forums have suggested that I use a Shimano 9 speed mountain bike rear derailleur married to my 7800 shifters. But my current mechanic (Orlean's Cycle) called Shimano and they said that a mountain RD is a "no-go" and I am going to trust him (and Shimano). Shimano said they have a new Shimano 5701 long cage RD and we are going to try this.
We will pair with a 12-32 cassette from Sram coupled with a Sram 1070 chain. Shimano makes a 11-32 cassette but the chances of me using a 11T gear are at best, slim to none. The Sram cassette is compatible with the Shimano RD. I am going with the Sram chain as it has a master link, and is heavier duty than the Dura Ace chain which has hollow links and does not have a master link (Sram easier to repair should it break).
As my bike has 13,000 miles the original wheels (Mavic) are long gone (cracked). I replaced with some Nuevation Wheels. Check this company out this company (www.neuvation.com). I recommend you get the owner's daily newsletter. They are a hoot. Got a set of wheels for $300 which normally would set you back at least a grand. I went with the heavier wheel with more spokes for my trip. Also with more spokes the rides is definitely more comfortable on the hands (less vibrations). this is my second pair of wheels from this company (put a set on my old Trek) and they have worked out quite well.
Now for the rack/pack problem. Spent far too much time on this one. Again while there is no need for panniers (luggage is transported daily for you), I wanted to be able to carry tools (tube, all in one tool, phone, camera, my small butt-cream packages, etc) as well as rain gear on those days it either was raining or rain was threatening. I found a bunch of solutions, none of which were perfect.
To start... I did not want to have a pack hanging on the handlebars as I wanted total hand movement freedom. This cut down on a lot of options as there are a lot of good handlebar bags out there (even some that are insulated to keep your beer cold).
Clearly I want my iphone and camera in front so I can get to either quickly. Solved this problem by getting a Timbuk2 "Goody Bag" that uses velcro to secure to your top tube. There is a clear "envelope" on the top you can put your phone in - but I will probably use it as a map holder. Not expecting a lot of calls - and plan on using the iphone more as a GPS (if I get lost). Plus bag is waterproof.
As to the back - this is where the big problem lies. Again, I have a carbon bike with a carbon seat post. So lots of the rear rack/rack packs won't work. I could have used some of the racks and attachment options that are available at The Touring Store (e.g. attach rack using an extended quick release) but I would have had to change out my carbon seat post with an alloy seat post and I did not want to do this (my seat post has an "elastic" insert to reduce vibration). Had I changed out the seat post I could have then connected the front of the rack using an Axiom Seat Collar with rack eyelets (Amazon sells them; Google it). But I love my seat post so I passed on this alternative.
Also looked at the Arkel Randonneur Seat Post Rack which hangs 100% off your seat rails along with their Trailrider bag - but this sticks up really high in the back and did not want to spend almost 4000 miles struggling to get on and off my bike.
That left me with finding a seat bag that was waterproof and big enough to carry my tools and rain gear. First solution - get light, packable rain gear. Bought rain gear from Shower Pass. It's light and really scrunches up. Less than 10 oz for the pants, Same for the jacket. I might upgrade the jacket before the trip (my Shower Pass jacket is a couple years old) with a new Mountain Hardware rain jacket if my daughter can come through with a deal for me.
As to the seat packs, after a lot of research there are only two seat bags that are big enough that are also waterproof. Lots of bigger bags (not waterproof) and lots of waterproof bags (not big enough). But only two that have both features. There is the Ortlieb Plus Saddle Bag (large); and the Banjo Brothers Waterproof Saddle Bag. I went with the Banjo bag. The Orlieb seems to stick out too far in the back and I was afraid it would sway too much when climbing.
Finally I debated whether to switch out my 23mm tires with 25mm tires. Lots of new research that says the 25mm tires are just as fast (if not faster) than the 23mm tires. And the 25mm tires absorb more road vibration. But in the end I stuck with the 23mm tires (gatorskins). Hope this was the right decision.
So here I sit. Waiting for the Shimano 105 and the Saddle Bag to arrive. Will update when I get them installed.
We will pair with a 12-32 cassette from Sram coupled with a Sram 1070 chain. Shimano makes a 11-32 cassette but the chances of me using a 11T gear are at best, slim to none. The Sram cassette is compatible with the Shimano RD. I am going with the Sram chain as it has a master link, and is heavier duty than the Dura Ace chain which has hollow links and does not have a master link (Sram easier to repair should it break).
As my bike has 13,000 miles the original wheels (Mavic) are long gone (cracked). I replaced with some Nuevation Wheels. Check this company out this company (www.neuvation.com). I recommend you get the owner's daily newsletter. They are a hoot. Got a set of wheels for $300 which normally would set you back at least a grand. I went with the heavier wheel with more spokes for my trip. Also with more spokes the rides is definitely more comfortable on the hands (less vibrations). this is my second pair of wheels from this company (put a set on my old Trek) and they have worked out quite well.
Now for the rack/pack problem. Spent far too much time on this one. Again while there is no need for panniers (luggage is transported daily for you), I wanted to be able to carry tools (tube, all in one tool, phone, camera, my small butt-cream packages, etc) as well as rain gear on those days it either was raining or rain was threatening. I found a bunch of solutions, none of which were perfect.
To start... I did not want to have a pack hanging on the handlebars as I wanted total hand movement freedom. This cut down on a lot of options as there are a lot of good handlebar bags out there (even some that are insulated to keep your beer cold).
Clearly I want my iphone and camera in front so I can get to either quickly. Solved this problem by getting a Timbuk2 "Goody Bag" that uses velcro to secure to your top tube. There is a clear "envelope" on the top you can put your phone in - but I will probably use it as a map holder. Not expecting a lot of calls - and plan on using the iphone more as a GPS (if I get lost). Plus bag is waterproof.
As to the back - this is where the big problem lies. Again, I have a carbon bike with a carbon seat post. So lots of the rear rack/rack packs won't work. I could have used some of the racks and attachment options that are available at The Touring Store (e.g. attach rack using an extended quick release) but I would have had to change out my carbon seat post with an alloy seat post and I did not want to do this (my seat post has an "elastic" insert to reduce vibration). Had I changed out the seat post I could have then connected the front of the rack using an Axiom Seat Collar with rack eyelets (Amazon sells them; Google it). But I love my seat post so I passed on this alternative.
Also looked at the Arkel Randonneur Seat Post Rack which hangs 100% off your seat rails along with their Trailrider bag - but this sticks up really high in the back and did not want to spend almost 4000 miles struggling to get on and off my bike.
That left me with finding a seat bag that was waterproof and big enough to carry my tools and rain gear. First solution - get light, packable rain gear. Bought rain gear from Shower Pass. It's light and really scrunches up. Less than 10 oz for the pants, Same for the jacket. I might upgrade the jacket before the trip (my Shower Pass jacket is a couple years old) with a new Mountain Hardware rain jacket if my daughter can come through with a deal for me.
As to the seat packs, after a lot of research there are only two seat bags that are big enough that are also waterproof. Lots of bigger bags (not waterproof) and lots of waterproof bags (not big enough). But only two that have both features. There is the Ortlieb Plus Saddle Bag (large); and the Banjo Brothers Waterproof Saddle Bag. I went with the Banjo bag. The Orlieb seems to stick out too far in the back and I was afraid it would sway too much when climbing.
Finally I debated whether to switch out my 23mm tires with 25mm tires. Lots of new research that says the 25mm tires are just as fast (if not faster) than the 23mm tires. And the 25mm tires absorb more road vibration. But in the end I stuck with the 23mm tires (gatorskins). Hope this was the right decision.
So here I sit. Waiting for the Shimano 105 and the Saddle Bag to arrive. Will update when I get them installed.
Tuesday, April 9, 2013
Ride Across America - Here I come!!!!
Just got back from Squaw and I just registered for the Ride Across America trip. It's 3667 miles in 50 days.
http://www.americabybicycle.com/AAN/
The ride starts in Portland Oregon and ends in Portsmouth, NH. It's what I call a "credit card" tour -where you stay in hotels, eat in restaurants and the ride is fully supported by a SAG wagon and bike mechanic. No camping and no lugging stuff on my bike.
Now I need to focus on getting ready for the ride. While I rode over 3200 miles last summer, I have spent the last 100 days skiing at Squaw. Not quite the normal plan for getting ready for a long ride like this - but I did ski hard every day (Chute 75, Split Tree, Slot and other steep Squaw trails).
Priority 1...
So now I have 60 days to get my bike legs back. Hopefully Cape Cod weather will be supportive of my training effort - or it will be down to the basement for 2-3 hours of riding the old spin bike.
Priority 2....
Get my bike and gear in shape for the ride.
http://www.americabybicycle.com/AAN/
The ride starts in Portland Oregon and ends in Portsmouth, NH. It's what I call a "credit card" tour -where you stay in hotels, eat in restaurants and the ride is fully supported by a SAG wagon and bike mechanic. No camping and no lugging stuff on my bike.
Now I need to focus on getting ready for the ride. While I rode over 3200 miles last summer, I have spent the last 100 days skiing at Squaw. Not quite the normal plan for getting ready for a long ride like this - but I did ski hard every day (Chute 75, Split Tree, Slot and other steep Squaw trails).
Priority 1...
So now I have 60 days to get my bike legs back. Hopefully Cape Cod weather will be supportive of my training effort - or it will be down to the basement for 2-3 hours of riding the old spin bike.
Priority 2....
Get my bike and gear in shape for the ride.
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