My bike is a Specialized S-Works with Dura Ace components. The challenge is that it has a compact front end (34-50) and a 12-27 cassette. And unfortunately the biggest gear that my Dura Ace 7800 rear derailleur will support is a 28T gear. This gear ratio just won't cut it in the mountains.
I have over 13000 miles on it and the last tune up was 3000 miles ago (new chain, etc). So changing out some of the older components made sense.
Also as the bike is completely carbon it won't support any rear racks. Not only are there no eyelets - but putting any kind of weight on carbon is not recommended.
So here is my recount of how I solved these two issues.
First the cassette and rear derailleur issue.
Now when I called the bike shop that sold me the S-Works - their solution was to buy a new bike (sorry Landry's - I am not going to do this). Ya got to understand this is not a cheap bike. Landry's just lost a customer.
I have researched the hell out of this and in the last month I have been working with my current bike mechanic to change out some of my components. Shimano has fallen behind the curve on supporting large gear teeth. So I looked at replacing the RD with a Sram RD - but I would have to replace most if all of my components to do this as they are not compatible with my Shimano 7800 shifters. While all of of Sram's RD support 32T rear cassettes - this switch to Sram would have cost me $1000 plus. So forget Sram.
Lots of riders in the bike Forums have suggested that I use a Shimano 9 speed mountain bike rear derailleur married to my 7800 shifters. But my current mechanic (Orlean's Cycle) called Shimano and they said that a mountain RD is a "no-go" and I am going to trust him (and Shimano). Shimano said they have a new Shimano 5701 long cage RD and we are going to try this.
We will pair with a 12-32 cassette from Sram coupled with a Sram 1070 chain. Shimano makes a 11-32 cassette but the chances of me using a 11T gear are at best, slim to none. The Sram cassette is compatible with the Shimano RD. I am going with the Sram chain as it has a master link, and is heavier duty than the Dura Ace chain which has hollow links and does not have a master link (Sram easier to repair should it break).
As my bike has 13,000 miles the original wheels (Mavic) are long gone (cracked). I replaced with some Nuevation Wheels. Check this company out this company (www.neuvation.com). I recommend you get the owner's daily newsletter. They are a hoot. Got a set of wheels for $300 which normally would set you back at least a grand. I went with the heavier wheel with more spokes for my trip. Also with more spokes the rides is definitely more comfortable on the hands (less vibrations). this is my second pair of wheels from this company (put a set on my old Trek) and they have worked out quite well.
Now for the rack/pack problem. Spent far too much time on this one. Again while there is no need for panniers (luggage is transported daily for you), I wanted to be able to carry tools (tube, all in one tool, phone, camera, my small butt-cream packages, etc) as well as rain gear on those days it either was raining or rain was threatening. I found a bunch of solutions, none of which were perfect.
To start... I did not want to have a pack hanging on the handlebars as I wanted total hand movement freedom. This cut down on a lot of options as there are a lot of good handlebar bags out there (even some that are insulated to keep your beer cold).
Clearly I want my iphone and camera in front so I can get to either quickly. Solved this problem by getting a Timbuk2 "Goody Bag" that uses velcro to secure to your top tube. There is a clear "envelope" on the top you can put your phone in - but I will probably use it as a map holder. Not expecting a lot of calls - and plan on using the iphone more as a GPS (if I get lost). Plus bag is waterproof.
As to the back - this is where the big problem lies. Again, I have a carbon bike with a carbon seat post. So lots of the rear rack/rack packs won't work. I could have used some of the racks and attachment options that are available at The Touring Store (e.g. attach rack using an extended quick release) but I would have had to change out my carbon seat post with an alloy seat post and I did not want to do this (my seat post has an "elastic" insert to reduce vibration). Had I changed out the seat post I could have then connected the front of the rack using an Axiom Seat Collar with rack eyelets (Amazon sells them; Google it). But I love my seat post so I passed on this alternative.
Also looked at the Arkel Randonneur Seat Post Rack which hangs 100% off your seat rails along with their Trailrider bag - but this sticks up really high in the back and did not want to spend almost 4000 miles struggling to get on and off my bike.
That left me with finding a seat bag that was waterproof and big enough to carry my tools and rain gear. First solution - get light, packable rain gear. Bought rain gear from Shower Pass. It's light and really scrunches up. Less than 10 oz for the pants, Same for the jacket. I might upgrade the jacket before the trip (my Shower Pass jacket is a couple years old) with a new Mountain Hardware rain jacket if my daughter can come through with a deal for me.
As to the seat packs, after a lot of research there are only two seat bags that are big enough that are also waterproof. Lots of bigger bags (not waterproof) and lots of waterproof bags (not big enough). But only two that have both features. There is the Ortlieb Plus Saddle Bag (large); and the Banjo Brothers Waterproof Saddle Bag. I went with the Banjo bag. The Orlieb seems to stick out too far in the back and I was afraid it would sway too much when climbing.
Finally I debated whether to switch out my 23mm tires with 25mm tires. Lots of new research that says the 25mm tires are just as fast (if not faster) than the 23mm tires. And the 25mm tires absorb more road vibration. But in the end I stuck with the 23mm tires (gatorskins). Hope this was the right decision.
So here I sit. Waiting for the Shimano 105 and the Saddle Bag to arrive. Will update when I get them installed.
We will pair with a 12-32 cassette from Sram coupled with a Sram 1070 chain. Shimano makes a 11-32 cassette but the chances of me using a 11T gear are at best, slim to none. The Sram cassette is compatible with the Shimano RD. I am going with the Sram chain as it has a master link, and is heavier duty than the Dura Ace chain which has hollow links and does not have a master link (Sram easier to repair should it break).
As my bike has 13,000 miles the original wheels (Mavic) are long gone (cracked). I replaced with some Nuevation Wheels. Check this company out this company (www.neuvation.com). I recommend you get the owner's daily newsletter. They are a hoot. Got a set of wheels for $300 which normally would set you back at least a grand. I went with the heavier wheel with more spokes for my trip. Also with more spokes the rides is definitely more comfortable on the hands (less vibrations). this is my second pair of wheels from this company (put a set on my old Trek) and they have worked out quite well.
Now for the rack/pack problem. Spent far too much time on this one. Again while there is no need for panniers (luggage is transported daily for you), I wanted to be able to carry tools (tube, all in one tool, phone, camera, my small butt-cream packages, etc) as well as rain gear on those days it either was raining or rain was threatening. I found a bunch of solutions, none of which were perfect.
To start... I did not want to have a pack hanging on the handlebars as I wanted total hand movement freedom. This cut down on a lot of options as there are a lot of good handlebar bags out there (even some that are insulated to keep your beer cold).
Clearly I want my iphone and camera in front so I can get to either quickly. Solved this problem by getting a Timbuk2 "Goody Bag" that uses velcro to secure to your top tube. There is a clear "envelope" on the top you can put your phone in - but I will probably use it as a map holder. Not expecting a lot of calls - and plan on using the iphone more as a GPS (if I get lost). Plus bag is waterproof.
As to the back - this is where the big problem lies. Again, I have a carbon bike with a carbon seat post. So lots of the rear rack/rack packs won't work. I could have used some of the racks and attachment options that are available at The Touring Store (e.g. attach rack using an extended quick release) but I would have had to change out my carbon seat post with an alloy seat post and I did not want to do this (my seat post has an "elastic" insert to reduce vibration). Had I changed out the seat post I could have then connected the front of the rack using an Axiom Seat Collar with rack eyelets (Amazon sells them; Google it). But I love my seat post so I passed on this alternative.
Also looked at the Arkel Randonneur Seat Post Rack which hangs 100% off your seat rails along with their Trailrider bag - but this sticks up really high in the back and did not want to spend almost 4000 miles struggling to get on and off my bike.
That left me with finding a seat bag that was waterproof and big enough to carry my tools and rain gear. First solution - get light, packable rain gear. Bought rain gear from Shower Pass. It's light and really scrunches up. Less than 10 oz for the pants, Same for the jacket. I might upgrade the jacket before the trip (my Shower Pass jacket is a couple years old) with a new Mountain Hardware rain jacket if my daughter can come through with a deal for me.
As to the seat packs, after a lot of research there are only two seat bags that are big enough that are also waterproof. Lots of bigger bags (not waterproof) and lots of waterproof bags (not big enough). But only two that have both features. There is the Ortlieb Plus Saddle Bag (large); and the Banjo Brothers Waterproof Saddle Bag. I went with the Banjo bag. The Orlieb seems to stick out too far in the back and I was afraid it would sway too much when climbing.
Finally I debated whether to switch out my 23mm tires with 25mm tires. Lots of new research that says the 25mm tires are just as fast (if not faster) than the 23mm tires. And the 25mm tires absorb more road vibration. But in the end I stuck with the 23mm tires (gatorskins). Hope this was the right decision.
So here I sit. Waiting for the Shimano 105 and the Saddle Bag to arrive. Will update when I get them installed.
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